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November 17, 2008

Yellow Hook Grille family-friendly Bay Ridge destination

Yellow hook grill 036
photo by Mary MacRae Warren

Every night can't be date night, so at Yellow Hook Grille the kids are always welcome.

"We're very family friendly," says partner Stephen Jackson of the grill that opened two years ago at the corner of Ovington Ave.  "We have crayons and a menu just for kids."

Yellow Hook Grille is not just for the kiddies, however.  The dinner menu is serious about good food at good value. The wine list is moderately priced with easy on the palate reds and whites (bottles start at $18).

We started our meal with jumbo shrimp cocktail ($11.95), goat cheese quesadillas ($9.95) and sliders -- mini-burgers  ($9.95).  The shrimp were huge, tender and succulent.  A different take on an old favorite, the quesadilla had a pleasing combination of mushrooms, peppers and onions for texture and balance to the smooth-tart bite of the goat cheese. For beef lovers, the sliders were the perfect one-bite mouthful, juicy and flavorful.

We might have stopped there because the appetizers were hearty, but we were glad we didn't.  

Our entrees included filet of sole ($16.95), filet mignon ($21.95), salmon steak ($15.95), a clam pie ($13), andkids mac 'n cheese ($5.95). 

The filet of sole, served with a traditional caper meunière sauce, was light and flaky to the fork. Grilled exactly to medium rare temperature, the filet mignon was pink and juicy.  Served with a dijon dill sauce, the salmon steak was moist and tender -- as it should be. The clam pie blended fresh mozzarella and savory clams for garlicky perfection; the kids mac 'n cheese was cheddar-rich and bread crumb topped.

Our dessert favorite? The decadent brownie with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce won hands down. 

Jackson and his partners, James and Robert Long, are no strangers to Bay Ridge.  They grew up in the neighborhood and opened their first bar and grill, Fairways, on 86th Street.  Chef Gene O'Connell of Long Island, also a partner, is responsible for the extensive menu of American comfort food heavily influenced by Italian and continental cuisine.

After four months of extensive renovations, the partners opened the grill in the landmark location of Lento's Italian ristorante.  All that remains of the 72-year-old neighborhood icon is a butcher block that the partners transformed into a communal table in the 30-plus seat bar.

The main dining area seats 70 and there's a whopping 80-plus seats outdoor in warm weather.

Check out Tuesday's recession special with $7 pies to go.  Happy hour drafts are $1 from 3-7 pm weekdays.

For more information: Yellow Hook Grille 7003 3rd Ave Brooklyn, NY 1120 718-238-1089 Kitchen open 7 days from 11:30 a.m.

November 10, 2008

Chocolate Cupcakes, Anyone?

Cho cup 

This week's Cupcake of the Week is chocolate. Big surprise!  I love me a good chocolate cupcake and this one is a winner.  Make some for yourself and see. I "heart" cupcakes.

Ingredients:

  • 1/2 cup butter, softened
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1 egg
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 cup baking cocoa
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 cup buttermilk
  • 1/2 cup strong brewed coffee
  • CHOCOLATE GANACHE:
  • 4 squares (1 ounce each) semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
  • 1/2 cup heavy whipping cream
  • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Directions:

In a small mixing bowl, cream butter and sugar until fluffy. Add egg and vanilla; mix well. Combine the flour, cocoa, baking soda and salt; add to creamed mixture alternately with buttermilk and coffee. 
    Fill paper-lined muffin cups two-thirds full. Bake at 350° for 25-30 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean. Cool for 10 minutes before removing from pans to wire racks to cool completely. 
    In a small saucepan, melt chocolate with cream over low heat; stir until blended. Remove from the heat. Stir in vanilla. Transfer to a bowl; cover and refrigerate until mixture reaches spreading consistency, stirring occasionally. Frost cupcakes. Yield: 14 cupcakes.
 

November 09, 2008

Experience Harlem's 'Hustle and Bustle' Next Saturday

If you've been waiting for the right moment to rediscover Harlem, that moment is now.  Hotter than it ever was, Harlem is in its second renaissance.

Wanda Mann, native New Yorker and woman about town,  will take you on a tour of her nabe with an insider's eye Saturday, November 15 from 3:30-7:30 pm.

Get your culture on with a visit to the Studio Museum of Harlem. Then whet your whistle with a wine and cheese pairing at Nectar, Harlem's newest wine bar where you'll sample two reds and two whites, perfectly paired with a selection of hors d'ouevres.  

Afterwards, Wanda takes you on a twilight tour to "experience Harlem's hustle and bustle," beautiful brownstones, historic architecture, trendy new boutiques and more.

Tickets for the experience are $50 and can be purchased online at CityDusk.com.

 

For more info: Check out Yes, This is Harlem at www.citydusk.com

November 08, 2008

Viva Latin Bistro: Sensual Food, Sensible Prices, Sexy Atmosphere

Viva latin bistro 002 

photo by Mary MacRae Warren

Latins deserve their reputation. Whatever they create -- music, art, food -- it just seems to have a natural sensuality.

Viva Latin Bistro is no exception.  It's hot, it's sexy and the food is pretty fabulous.

The 45-seat restaurant, newly opened in Bay Ridge Brooklyn, just might be the borough's best bet for traditional Colombian cuisine.  Run by the beautiful Lopez sisters -- Jessica and Jennifer -- this small restaurant serves up huge Latin flavor.  While the emphasis is on Colombian comfort food, the dishes they grew up with, the restaurant offers a range of specialties representative of Latin American cuisine.

Choose from huge platters of saffron-scented paellas ($14-15) to fresh seafood selections such as filete de Tilapia al ajillo (Tilapia filet in a garlic sauce served with coconut rice and tostones $14)  and Seviche de Camarones (shrimp marinated in orange, lemon, & lime juices $9), to a variety of appetizers such as arepas de Chocolo (traditional sweet corn cakes served with goat cheese $4) .

A stylishly eclectic blend of traditional Colombian artwork and modern furnishings, Viva Latin Bistro is a perfect date restaurant with cozy, intimate banquets.  Go on a Friday or Saturday night when a Colombian guitarist serenades diners and be sure to ask for his rendition of the classic,  "Besame Mucho."

Parking is sparse on this stretch of Bay Ridge's busy restaurant row, but the restaurant offers valet parking weekends.

The Lopez sisters are as charming as their restaurant is inviting.  You'll be tempted to linger long after your espresso and pumpkin cheesecake ($3.50) or traditional Tres Leches cake ($3.50) are done.

For more info: Viva Latin Bistro 7107 Third Avenue Brooklyn, NY 11209 718.567.2900 Sun -Thur 12-10p F-S 12-11p BYOB

November 02, 2008

One Banana, Two Banana

Food & georgia 005Unlike Jessica Seinfeld, I've had very little luck fooling my kid by sneaking fruits and vegetables into other foods that my kid likes.  My kid has a sniffer that won't be fooled.

I pureed bananas and put them in his pancakes -- with a few chocolate chip to throw him off track.  Ha!

"This tastes funny," he sniffed and shoved the plate away.

I made strawberry smoothies to get a fruit into him.  Good thing I like strawberry smoothies because I was the only one drinking it.

One week he loves vanilla yogurt, the next week he's not touching the stuff. 

Until a month ago, he refused to eat all fruit. Now it's grapes, grapes, grapes.  I have a picture of him eating a banana at about 18 months.  My proof that he did, indeed, eat this maligned tropical delight.

It's a challenge sorting out what to do with all those bananas I keep buying, hoping against hope.  I used to freeze them and make smoothies.  Recently I made some banana bread with a recipe that I love from Gourmet's cookbook.  Naturally, I had to tweak it because I wanted something festive.  In went with the chocolate chips.  Macadamia nuts optional. Next time I think I'll add some glaceed cherries.

It makes a huge loaf, so there's plenty for me to eat now and later. And in case I tire of gooey chocolatey and tropical banana bread for breakfast, I can always transform my leftover loaf into a fabulous bread pudding with caramel rum sauce. Just substitute banana bread for brioche and go bananas!

October 25, 2008

And a Good Time Was Had By All

Food & georgia 073 Southern cooking has come a long way from buttermilk biscuits and fried chicken with a side of mashed potatoes.

The Feed Store (3841 Main Street, College Park, GA 30337, 404.209.7979), a sleek, contemporary restaurant with an innovative, young chef is proof in the banana pudding.

Housed in the former J.D. South Grain Store, the restaurant and bar features smart modern design with whimsical metal chicken fittings for doors, a sculpturally screened dining area and bright revisionist artist's portraits of chickens, of course. 

The Feed Store is the brainchild of Celita Bullard, granddaughter of an original owner of the grain store.  Ms. Bullard and executive chef Peter Golaszewski have designed a concept and menu that sustains local farmers while reinterpreting favorite traditional foods. 

Chef Golazewski, a former journalist originally from above the Mason-Dixon, left his writing behind to pursue his passion for creating memorable meals.  Nowhere could his love for fresh ingredients, slow food, and fine dining be more apparent than in his eclectic ever-changing menu. He marries tradition, innovation and super-fresh ingredients to create some of the best of New Southern cuisine.

Begin your meal with house smoked sweetgrass goat cheese served with poached Ellijay apple, zucchini bread and a scuppernong reduction ($12), a spicy butternut squash bisque with pecan crusted fried Shiitake mushrooms and creme fraiche ($7) or a simple mixed mesclun salad dressed with apple cider vinaigrette and garnished with -- what else -- celeriac-boiled peanuts. 

Follow your appetizer with one of several imaginative small plates or entrees that demonstrate Chef Golaszewski's culinary skill and  his wit and whimsy as well as his sense of tradition.  Crispy Georgia quail with macerated fennel and finely diced beets in a sorghum molasses pot likker consomme ($10, small plate) is not only delicious but pays homage to an old Southern comfort food.  Rare are the Southern natives who have not had their courage or health nursed with a cup of pot likker straight from the stove top pot.
Food & georgia 081
The mountain trout ($21, entree) served with an ingenious ravioli composed of tomato grits and thinly sliced steamed zucchini, is succulent and satisfying with its light garlicky and citrusy veloute. On the heartier side, enjoy country fried boneless braised beef short ribs and tomato gravy, served with buttermilk mashed potatoes, and brown butter Brussel sprouts ($27, entree). 

Ideal wine pairings for these dishes are a classic Italian white, Grechetto Marche 2006 from Conti Degli Azzoni in Umbria, and a Spanish Shiraz Tempranillo 2005 Berberana No. 1.  The Grechetto ($9) is a straw yellow, fruity with hints of pear and almond, very slightly sweet, reminiscent of a drier reisling, and moderately acidic.  Berberana, known for their fine Riojas, recently released the earthy and spicy No. 1 ($8) from Vino de la Tierra de Castilla.

If you still have room for more, don't miss the decadent banana pudding bread pudding accompanied by Nilla Wafer crumbled vanilla bean ice cream ($7). 

As they say down South: A good time was had by all.

October 16, 2008

Personal Trainer: Cooking

Personal-trainer-cookingI know my way around a kitchen, so forgive me my skepticism when I heard Nintendo was releasing a "video game" for cooking enthusiasts that wasn't all fun and comic mischief. 

However, after watching the NIntendo team demonstrate Personal Trainer: Cooking for the DS, I am sold.  Not that I'm tossing my collection of fabulous and well-loved cook books, but Personal Trainer -- with 245 international recipes ranging from simple to complex -- is a pretty nifty item to have. 

The training title makes everyone a chef by providing a data base detailing not only recipes, but equipment, ingredients, calorie counts, cooking times and level of difficulty.  Even if you don't know the difference between a whisk and a potato ricer, DS Chef, your private cooking instructor, will walk you through the process from beginning to end. Too bad he doesn't do dishes.

Initially, I was convinced this was a tool for the beginning cook until I saw the video how-to for cleaning squid.  Calamari anyone? 

Neat and handy are the voice command controls that keep your hands free while working.  Need to repeat a step, speak and it's done.  The shopping list feature is super handy for making sure you come home from the store with everything you need (and not a ton of budget-busting impulse buys).

I only see one problem with Personal Trainer: Cooking.  Who gets to use the DS? Me or the boy?

Order, up!

October 13, 2008

Real Age Touts "Olive Oil for a Flat Belly"

Yay!  I'm delighted to see that something I adore, an essential ingredient in my culinary repertoire, might make my "food baby" flatter than a lovely, paper-thin crepe.  You too can have a flatter tummy by adhering to a Mediterranean diet rich in "good fat" -- olive oil. 

Here's what the website Real Age has to say on the subject of trimmer tummies and olive oil:

That bagel? It could go right to your gut. Literally. But a bit of olive oil each day may help keep your middle little.

That's what researchers are saying after testing two diets -- one high in carbs and the other based on healthy fats from olive oil. The "fat" diet kept bellies flatter.

Why Belly Fat Is So Bad
Besides making you sad when you zip up your pants, excessive abdominal fat increases your risk for high blood sugar and many other health problems. But in a recent study of overweight people, a Mediterranean-style diet -- where approximately 30 percent to 40 percent of the calories came from unsaturated fats, like those in olive oil -- seemed to help prevent tummy-expanding over time. Another bonus: The fat-focused diet helped people maintain better insulin sensitivity, too. Not so with the high-carb diet, which seemed to encourage body fat to relocate to people’s bellies. (Read this to find out how much Mediterranean eating it takes to reduce heart disease.)

Weight Loss Arithmetic
Keep in mind that extra olive oil isn't going to help you trim your middle. It could just help keep your pants from getting tighter. For serious waist whittling, you'll need two must-do's: a healthy diet and extra exercise. Try the YOU Docs' plan for making this 1+1 waist loss equation work for you.

Did You Know?
Some fats make you hungrier. Get the scoop here on which ones can leave you wanting.

   

    RealAge Benefit: Eating only healthful fat can make your RealAge 3.4 years younger.

October 03, 2008

A Dinner With A View


Breakers_spring_lake_001

Dinner at The Breakers on the Ocean (1507 Ocean Ave, 732.499.7700) is an experience that transports diners to the glory days of Spring Lake’s landmark resort era.

 

From the spectacular oceanfront view to the restrained luxury of the dining room with its calming soft peach and creamy pale yellow palette, and high-backed upholstered chairs reminiscent of scallop shells, the formal dining room creates mise en scene for leisurely and elegant meals in the Continental tradition. 

 

Dine early for the gorgeous seascape, an expanse of flat, shimmering water stretching as far as the eye can see. Linger through a multi-course meal that defines what dining can and should be – gracious, well-executed and satisfying.

 

The menu features traditional Northern Italian fare as well as timeless seashore inspired classics such as Surf and Turf ($39) or New Zealand Rack of Baby Lamb ($34). The chef offers daily specials which reflect an on-going passion for culinary art. Entrées are accompanied by  creamy mashed potatoes and a house salad of crisp fresh greens, tomatoes, and shredded mozzarella dressed with an Italian vinaigrette. Each plate is garnished with an edible orchid.

 

We were in the mood for pasta and were in no way disappointed with our selections: plump cheese-stuffed tricolore tortellini ($12) and a lush lobster ravioli ($24), both served in a fragrant basil-flecked pomodoro sauce. At the manager’s suggestion, I had a glass of pinot noir that had a subtle nose, a round, fruity flavor and a soft finish. The pinot noir ($8) paired well with my dish, balancing the rich tomato and delicate lobster.

 

Service was impeccable and unassuming. Our waiter was pleasant and generous in accommodating my indecisive 10-year-old, something parents who enjoy dining out and who wish to educate their children in the etiquette of fine dining truly appreciate.

 

Dessert can be enjoyed in the dining room and diners have a sweet selection to choose from including Tartufo ($6), gelati and ice cream as well as a variety of pastry possibilities ranging from the richly decadent chocolate molten lava cake to the berry-filled Frutti di Bosco (both $8). Have dessert in the piano bar accompanied by live music and an espresso or wind down with a digestif or a brandy.

 

The gracious top-down management style of The Scardino family, the Breakers hoteliers for more than 30 years, is amply reflected in their restaurant where food and beverage manager James E. Vazquez keeps the flow smoothly and quietly efficient.

 

An evening at the Breakers is meant to be spent leisurely in the company of good friends or loved ones. The rhythm of the meal is ordered and paced, but diners don’t feel pushed. Their knowledgeable staff makes diners feel reluctant to leave, a far cry from the table turning experiences in other lesser establishments.

 

This is fine dining the way it’s intended.

September 27, 2008

Romancing the Raintree

 

St_augustine_sept_2008_259

As I sat enjoying a glass of pinot grigio and the animated conversation of my dinner companions, I kept waiting to witness someone pop the question on bended knee at one of the nearby tables for two.

 

The Raintree (102 San Marco Ave., 904.824.7211) is the kind of restaurant that inspires that sort of imaginative speculation. Diners are immersed in romance from appetizers to dessert. One can’t help but get swept up in the mood of the moment.

 

Dark and quietly tasteful, the Raintree Restaurant personifies fine dining -- from the hushed and unobtrusive service of its staff to its atmospheric location in a restored 1879 Victorian home and its rich and traditional Continental cuisine.

 

What I loved about the service was this: I never even knew what I needed until it was provided. That meant plates appeared perfectly presented and disappeared when I was done seamlessly. I never needed to ask for more water. When my wine glass was nearly empty, my waiter arrived on the feet of the quietest cat and asked if I would like another.

 

There are times and places where it’s ideal to be chatted up by your waiter, when you are by yourself or if you are interested in learning more about a locale, and then there are times when a meal requires quiet intimacy. The Raintree is perfect for those occasions.

 

A family owned and run restaurant, the Raintree was started on what Southerners like to call “a wing and a prayer.” In the tradition of previous generations of fortune-seekers, the MacDonald family left their home in England aboard a 45-foot yacht to seek a new life in America. They set sail and 17 days later docked in St. Augustine where in November 1980 they opened the Raintree. Tristan and Alex MacDonald, who’d never run a restaurant before, thought it would be a cakewalk. While it was harder than the couple imagined, they stuck with it and now the restaurant is a favorite in the city as well as the region. 

Now is run by daughter, Lorna, and her husband, Chris, the restaurant with its 400-bottle wine list is consistently a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence recipient and is listed as in Florida Trend Magazine's 100 Best as well as Zagat's survey of outstanding restaurants.

From its humble beginnings in the home of Confederate veteran Bernard Masters, the restaurant has flowered. The family influence is obvious in the care and attention to detail that goes into the dining experience.

 

Our meal was perfectly timed and prepared. We had an appetizer of smoked salmon crostini ($11.95), which was a wonderful blend of textures and tastes, followed by a simple salad ($7.95) of organic wild greens with crumbled Gorgonzola and a balsamic vinaigrette.

 

The appetizer was focused by smoked wild salmon and creamy fresh mozzarella, with counterpoints of savory pesto, bitter capers, piquant onions, sweet tomato, and richly salty caviar. Our main course of filet mignon Napoleon ($23.95 - $39.95, depending on the portion size) was an imaginatively designed plate featuring a tender medium rare filet, accented with Portobello mushroom and broiled tomato with goat cheese medallions on a Port wine sauce, served with red bliss potatoes, tender baby carrots and green beans.

 

Not that we needed more, but there was dessert to be had (prices from $5.95). We had a lovely and luscious cappuccino ice cream crepe sprinkled with almonds and served with raspberry coulis and dark chocolate sauce.

 

I didn’t get any proposals, but I certainly had an immensely satisfying meal in good company. I can’t think of any better way to end a day.

WINE AND DINE

  • GAIL GERSON-WITTE'S FOUR STAR REVIEWS
    E-Mail me at marymacraewarren@yahoo.com if you know of a fabulous restaurant or culinary inn that deserves recognition.

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  • I've been passionate about food and cooking since I first stood on a chair in my Mom's kitchen to help mix the batter for one of her fabulously rich and dense pound cakes. As a young adult I worked in restaurants ranging from diners to American bistros to Japanese teppanyaki grills. I loved modifying the recipes at the places I worked to my own needs and my own kitchen. My palate expanded as travel introduced me to different cultures and cuisines, and I brought back recipes, herbs and spices, equipment and techniques. If it's food or food-related, it's got to be good.

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